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Installing a bath tub isn't exactly brain surgery, but it does call for solid plumbing, woodworking, and often, tiling abilities. Replacing an old tub with a brand-new one is also a reasonably difficult job. If the old bathtub is easily obtainable, the project can relocate speedily; if you need to open up a wall to eliminate the old bathtub as well as place the new tub, the job is much harder. In either situation, the task is within a home handyman's skills, although you will certainly need a helper to vacate the old tub as well as embeded in the brand-new one. Ensure you have actually certified yourself for the task as well as fit trying it. Rather than employing a contractor to take over a halfway-completed job, it is far better to consider employing one prior to you start. Chances are you may require a specialist plumber to make tube connections.
This short article will certainly aid you mount a new bathtub in your shower room if you have actually currently bought a new tub as well as do not require to change the arrangement of your previous water system pipes.
Your tools as well as product list should comprise the following:
Removing Old Taps
If you need to change old taps with new ones as a part of your installation, then the first thing you ought to do is detach the water system. After doing so, activate the faucets to drain pipes any kind of water continuing to be in the system. The process of removing the existing taps can be quite problematic due to the restricted access that is typically the situation.
Utilize a basin wrench (crowsfoot spanner) or a tap tool to undo the nut that links the supply pipes to the taps. Have a cloth ready for the remaining water that will come from the pipes. As soon as the supply pipelines have actually been gotten rid of, make use of the very same device to loosen up the nut that holds the taps onto the bath/basin. You will need to stop the single taps from turning during this procedure. As soon as the faucets have actually been eliminated, the holes in the bath/basin will have to be cleansed of any type of old sealing compound.
Prior to proceeding to fit the new taps, contrast the pipeline connections on the old taps to the new faucets. If the old faucets are longer than the brand-new taps, then a shank adapter is required for the brand-new faucets to fit.
Fitting New Taps
If the tails of the new faucets are plastic, after that you will need a plastic adapter to stop damages to the thread. One end of the connector fits on the plastic tail of the faucet as well as the other end gives a link to the existing supply pipes.
If you require to fit a monobloc, after that you will require reducing couplers, which attaches the 10mm pipeline of the monobloc to the basic 15mm supply pipeline.
Next off, position the tap in the placing hole in the bath/basin ensuring that the washing machines remain in location between the faucet as well as the sink. Secure the faucet in place with the manufacturer given backnut. When the tap is firmly in place, the supply pipelines can be linked to the tails of the taps. The faucets can either be linked by using corrugated copper piping or with regular tap connectors. The previous type needs to be linked to the tap ends initially, tightening up only by hand. The supply pipelines can later be attached to the other end. Tighten up both ends with a spanner after both ends have been connected.
Setting up the Bathtub
Making use of the two wood boards under its feet, place the tub in the required placement. The wooden boards are handy in uniformly spreading out the weight of the tub over the area of the boards rather than focusing all the weight onto 4 small factors.
The next objective is to ensure that the tub is leveled all round. This can be achieved by inspecting the spirit level as well as adjusting the feet on the tub until the spirit level reviews level.
To set up taps, fit all-time low of the outermost versatile tap adapter to the suitable supply pipeline by making a compression join; after that do the same for the other faucet.
Switch on the water system and inspect all joints and also new pipework for leakages and also tighten them if essential. Fill up the bath tub and likewise examine the overflow outlet as well as the regular outlet for leakages.
Ultimately, fix the bathroom paneling as defined in the producer's user's manual. Tiling and also sealing around the tub needs to wait until the tub has actually been made use of at least when as this will certainly settle it into its last placement.
Preparing for the Setup
To start with, the supporting frame provided with the bathroom needs to be fitted (if required) according to the producer's guidelines. Next off, fit the taps or mixer to the bathtub. When fitting the faucet block, it is necessary to make sure that if the tap includes a plastic washing machine, it is fitted in between the bath and the taps. On a plastic bath, it is likewise reasonable to fit a sustaining plate under the taps unit to avoid stress on the tub.
Fit the adaptable faucet adapters to the bottom of the two taps using 2 nuts as well as olives (often supplied with the tub). Fit the plug-hole electrical outlet by smearing mastic filler round the sink electrical outlet opening, and afterwards pass the electrical outlet via the hole in the bathroom. Make use of the nut provided by the manufacturer to fit the plug-hole. Examine the plug-hole outlet for an inlet on the side for the overflow pipe.
Next, fit the end of the flexible overflow pipe to the overflow outlet. After that, screw the pipe to the overflow face which ought to be fitted inside the bath. Ensure you utilize all of the supplied washers.
Link the trap to the bottom of the waste outlet on the bathtub by winding the thread of the waste electrical outlet with silicone mastic or PTFE tape, and also screw on the trap to the outlet. Attach all-time low of the overflow tube in a comparable manner.The bathroom must currently prepare to be fitted in its final position.
Tiling Around the Bathtub
In the area where the bathroom fulfills the floor tile, it is essential to secure the joins with a silicone rubber caulking. This is essential as the fitting can move enough to fracture an inflexible seal, creating the water to permeate the wall between the bath and also the tiling, bring about issues with moisture as well as possible leakages to the ceiling listed below.
You can select from a range of coloured sealants to assimilate your components as well as fittings. They are sold in tubes and cartridges, and also can sealing gaps approximately a size of 3mm (1/8 inch). If you have a larger gap to load, you can load it with twists of soaked paper or soft rope. Keep in mind to always load the bath tub with water before securing, to enable the motion experienced when the tub remains in use. The sealant can fracture relatively early if you do not take into account this activity before sealing.
Conversely, ceramic coving or quadrant ceramic tiles can be used to border the bath or shower tray. Plastic strips of coving, which are easy to use and reduce to size, are additionally quickly available on the marketplace. It is a good idea to fit the tiles making use of water-resistant or waterproof glue and grout.
How to Install or Replace a Bathtub
Find Your Dimensions
The first step in any bathtub installation or replacement is to select the right size tub for your bathroom. Start by measuring your existing bathtub’s alcove from wall to wall. The standard size for bathtubs is around 5 feet long and 30 or 32 inches wide. Purchase the size that’s closest to your previous tub.
After you’ve measured, you’ll need to figure out what type of tub you need. Face the alcove. If the drain is on the right-hand side, you’ll need a right drain tub. If it’s on the left, get a left drain tub. Easy enough, right?
Disconnect the Water Supply and Drain Assembly
Before you can start on your removal, make sure that you turn off the tub’s water supply. Some bathrooms have a shutoff valve, but if you don’t see one, you’ll need to turn off the supply at your house’s water main. Once the water’s off, open the valves to release any remaining air in the supply lines.
Then, disconnect the tub drain flange. This process varies based on the type of drain you have, but in most cases, you’ll need a drain flange removal tool to perform this task. If you’re feeling handy, you might be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to twist and pull the flange.
Now comes the fun part. In order to disconnect the drain assembly, you’ll need to be able to get to the space underneath the tub. You might need to access the tub drain from a crawlspace or a basement. Don’t forget to take a pipe wrench with you, as you’ll need it to loosen the pipe at the connection.
Cut Out the Old Tub
After removing the drainpipe assembly, you can take out the old bathtub. Cut a strip above the tub edge in the wall surrounding the bathtub that's about 6 inches in height. The tools you need here may vary depending on the type of wall surround you have in the alcove. If you’re cutting drywall, use a drywall saw and remove the section of the wall all the way down to the studs. If you have tile, you’ll need to use a grinder with a diamond blade to cut through the grout line. Then, use a chisel to remove the individual tiles. Take care here not to cut through any studs.
Find the tub flange. Remove the screws that attach the flange to the studs in the wall. At this point, the tub should be freed from the wall.
Once you’ve removed the flange, use a utility knife to cut away the caulk between the tub and the floor. When this is done, you should be able to lift the tub up and out of the alcove. Keep in mind that, depending on what it’s made of, the old tub could be tremendously heavy. You should plan to have a friend help you move it just in case.
Install the New Tub
Before you make any adjustments to the area, place the new tub in the alcove to make sure it fits properly and that the tub drain lines up with the P-trap underneath the floor.
Remove it and install a 2 x 4 ledger board. Measure the tub’s flange, then mark that height on the wall. Screw the ledger board to studs in the wall. This will help to support the weight of the tub.
Once the ledger board has been installed, go ahead and secure the drain to the tub. For this step, you’ll need some plumber’s putty. Roll a small amount of putty in your hands and wrap it around the underside of the drain flange. Push the drain into the tub from underneath the tub.
When the drain has been attached, connect the overflow drain. To do this, you’ll place the gasket on the overflow elbow and move it behind the tub. Once that’s on, connect the overflow pipe and the drainpipe, but take care not to overtighten.
Secure the Tub
After the connections are in, it’s time to set the tub in place. Before you start, make sure the flange lines up with the markings you made in Step 4. Because the ledger board holds the tub in place, it’s important that it matches up. If not, you’ll need to remove it and readjust.
Once your measurements line up, attach the flange to the studs on all three sides of the wall. Please note that you should not screw the flange to the wall. Instead, you should use roofing nails because they won’t rust over time. When the tub is in place, install the baseboard and the molding in front of and around the tub.
Repair and finish off the drywall or tile that you cut in Step 3. If you’re installing a fiberglass bath surround, now’s the time to adhere it to the alcove.
Then, enjoy your tub! While all these steps might seem intimidating, removing and installing a new bathtub is a relatively easy DIY project that can be completed in a single day. And now, when you settle in for your next bubbly soak, you can enjoy your bath without the distraction of a tub in disrepair.
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